Adam’s China Trip Report #1

I've recently returned from a trip to China. Over the next few weeks you can read about some of the amazing culinary experiences I enjoyed during my travels.

Day 1: Brunch in Beijing

After a comfortable flight, we arrived at Beijing. Our time in the city would be brief, so a drive through the early morning rush-hour took us straight from the airport to The Great Wall.

Wanting to stretch our legs after an eight hour flight, we opted to walk up. At 4000 miles, The Great Wall is the longest human-made structure, and some sections date from as early as 200 BC. Seemed to me like a lot of trouble just to keep the Scots out! Nevertheless, it made for a steep and tiring two hour climb in the humid noon sun. At the top we had our photo taken next to a sign quoting Mao's proclamation that any who had managed to reach this point without collapsing were heroes. Bolstered by this, we decided to take the cable car back down and head back to the city for brunch.

Like many of you, I've been enjoying Chinese cuisine in the UK for years. How, I wondered, would it differ in its eponymous homeland? Jenny Li, my delectable and erudite travelling companion, hails from Beijing, & was eager for me to sample its culinary diversity. She took me to one of her favourite restaurants specialising in crab recipes.

Even in a city as large and cosmopolitan as Beijing, If you don't speak Mandarin (which I don't yet), you're lost. I was presented with a menu without a word of English. No matter, Jenny ordered a local beer to keep me occupied whilst she perused the carte du jour. Minutes later the waitress set a huge live crab in front of me at the table.

Not wanting to offend local custom by leaping out of my chair, I tactfully nodded my appreciation. What to do... make friends with it? Jenny said that the staff merely wanted to assure us that the food is fresh. Fresh? It's grabbing my shirt! To the Chinese, she explained, the concept of eating seafood that has been dead for an indeterminable period is distasteful, so it's kept alive until the moment of preparation... which sounds very sensible to me.

The crab waved goodbye to us as it was taken away. It returned ten minutes later in a pan with leeks, shallots, chillies, coriander, and star anise. Accompanying dishes were boiled rice, and one of my favourites - Chinese spinach. There were several cold dishes too; thinly-sliced braised beef, pickled mixed vegetables, & green beans.

The meal was spicy, & delicious, but the beer reminded my brain that it was, by my body-clock, five o'clock in the morning. No time for sleep yet, though, the city awaits…